你知道世界上最酷的运动是什么吗？
攀冰呗！
攀冰季就要来了！不知道你是不是和我们一样充满期待？在真正开始攀冰之前的这两个月，成都领攀将会推出一系列跟攀冰相关的文章，这是系列中的第二篇。我们希望这些文章能在整个冰季陪伴、鼓励你：从生无可恋地打镐，直到最终能爬上真正的冰瀑！
——曾山（Jon），成都领攀校长
往期回顾：
（一）梦幻般美妙的攀冰世界——我该如何入门？
（二）
攀冰装备面面观
Let’s Talk Equipment
Those new to ice climbing may find the equipment confusing. In this article I try to explain, in simple terms, the personal equipment you will need to start climbing ice with a group of friends. I’m not going to get into all the group equipment such as ropes, ice screws, alpine draws etc.; just your own personal kit, which includes:
如果你刚接触攀冰，对各式各样的装备很可能感到困惑不已。所以我希望通过这篇文章向你简单讲述，如果要加入朋友们一起去攀冰，你需要什么样的个人装备。需要说明的是，像绳子、冰锥、登山快挂等公用装备不在我们这次的讨论范围内，我们现在要讲的是个人攀登装备，包括：
- Crampons
- Boots
- Pair of Ice Tools
- Harness
- Belay Device & Locking Carabiner
- Helmet
- 25L-35L Technical Backpack
- 冰爪
- 高山靴
- 一对冰镐
- 安全带
- 保护器和主锁
- 头盔
- 25L-35L技术背包
Ice climbing gear has evolved leaps and bounds since I started climbing ice 20 plus years ago, and this has made the sport a lot more fun, a lot safer, and a lot easier to get into. For instance, when I started climbing I used bang-in ice screws. You needed to use two hands and find a good place to balance your body. A bit precarious. Now you can be hanging by one arm on an overhang and throw in a screw in less than 30 seconds.
自从我开始攀冰这20多年来，攀冰装备经历了突飞猛进的变化。这些变化为攀冰运动融入了更多乐趣，大大提高了安全性，同时也让攀冰新手更容易入门。比如说，我刚开始攀冰时，冰锥是需要用锤头敲进冰壁里的。要固定一个冰锥的话，你必须腾出两只手找到一个理想的地方来保持平衡，而且心里总是感到有点不安全。反观当今，单臂悬挂在冰壁仰角并在30秒之内打进一颗冰锥已经变得十分稀松平常。
Ice climbing is an equipment intensive sport. It’s important to have the correct equipment and keep it in good working condition. This may sound obvious, but you’ll be surprised by what you see out there. Sometimes it’s pretty scary.
攀冰是一项与装备结合度非常高的运动，务必要选择正确的装备并保持它们良好的工作状态。这话听起来显而易见，但在实际攀冰时你往往会看见一些与之背道而驰的事让人大跌眼镜，有时候甚至令人胆战心惊。
First, what is correct equipment? Your life depends on the gear you use so only use equipment from industry recognized reputable companies that go through the proper channels to have their gear CE and UIAA certified. (Be aware of some brands in China that falsely use the CE and UIAA labels). China really only has one outdoor gear company that makes quality, internationally certifiable ice gear, and that’s KAILAS. Other highly respected gear brands popular in China are Black Diamond, Petzl, Grivel, CAMP, DMM, Simond, Singing Rock and Trango.
首先，我们来讲什么是正确的装备。毫不夸张地说，你的生命寄托在你使用的装备上，所以一定要选用由行业公认信誉度高的公司生产、且通过正规渠道经CE和UIAA认证的装备（要注意国内有无良厂商盗用CE和UIAA的标志）。严格来说，中国国内生产高质量、有国际认证的攀冰装备品牌只有一家，那就是凯乐石（KAILAS）。其他来自国外并在国内使用比较广泛的装备品牌包括Black Diamond、Petzl、Grivel、CAMP、DMM、Simond、Singing Rock、Trango等。
CE标识是一种安全认证标志，代表欧洲统一（CONFORMITE EUROPEENNE）。在欧盟市场CE标志属强制性认证标志，以表明产品符合欧盟《技术协调与标准化新方法》指令的基本要求。
UIAA（国际登山协会，Union Internationale des Associations de l'Alpinisme）是国际间公认有权威、能为攀登器材订立标准的组织。UIAA标识是指这项产品通过UIAA规定的测试，并达到UIAA所订的标准。
▲凯乐石主锁上的CE认证标识
Next, you should use the type of equipment that fits your climbing style and ability. For instance, I’ve seen beginner climbers using dry tooling tools. Sure, they look ultra cool, but this is probably not the best choice for climbing moderate ice routes. Boots are also a big consideration. General mountaineering boots are fine for most ice climbing, but if you’re going to get serious then you should consider buying a dedicated ice climbing boot.
接下来，你应该选择匹配你攀冰水平和风格的装备。举例来说，我曾见过初级攀冰者使用干攀镐来攀冰。不用说，他们看起来很酷炫，但如果只是攀登一面普通的冰壁，也许这不是最好的选择。高山靴也要做足功课，虽然普通的高山靴完全可以用于大部分攀冰活动，不过如果你要非常认真地对待攀冰，那么应该考虑购买一双专用攀冰靴。
Let’s take a look at our personal gear kit in detail.
现在让我们详细看一看攀冰所需的个人装备。
Crampons
冰爪
For ice climbing you need a technical crampon designed for climbing vertical waterfall ice. Do not buy a strap-on crampon, but rather a crampon with a step-in binding. A step-in crampon has a wire bail that holds the toe in place while a heel cable with tension lever attaches the crampon to the heel. Step-in crampon is the most secure and for ice climbing you need a crampon that feels one with your boot and has no “float”.
对于攀冰，你需要一双专为攀登垂直冰壁而设计的技术冰爪。不要买绑式冰爪，而要选全卡式冰爪。卡式冰爪前端有金属条固定鞋尖部分，后跟有卡杆可以将冰爪卡在高山靴鞋跟卡槽上。完全卡好的卡式冰爪是最牢固的，因为攀冰时你需要冰爪和高山靴合二为一，绝不能让高山靴在冰爪上“浮动”。
Ice climbing crampons have vertical front points made from super strong steal. You can have two front points (dual) or one, known as monopoint. Dual front points provide two points of contact when kicking for greater stability and increased surface area. Dual front points are often preferred for pure ice climbing, or where you need maximum bite in soft ice conditions. We also recommend beginners use dual front points. Monopoints are best for mixed climbing, thin ice, anything technically difficult and dry tooling. They are extremely precise, but also require more skill to use correctly.
攀冰冰爪的前立齿都是由高强度合金钢制成。前齿分为双齿和单齿。双齿冰爪在踢冰时有两片前齿接触冰面，可以增加受力面积，提供更好的稳定性。单齿冰爪往往用于纯粹的攀冰活动，或者在软冰上需要最大咬合力的情况下。我们推荐攀冰初学者使用双齿冰爪。单齿冰爪在混合攀登、薄冰、难度较大的攀冰、干攀时更好用。单齿冰爪入冰非常精准，同时也要求更高的使用技巧。
▲KAILAS Krantz冰爪的双齿（左）和单齿模式（右）的对比
Most technical crampons you can convert from vertical dual points to a monopoint, and vice-versa.
大部分技术冰爪的前齿都可以在双齿和单齿之间相互转换。
Boots
高山靴
Present day mountaineering boots are a high-tech wonder… light-weight, comfortable, warm, technically functional and cool looking. You may use any mountaineering boot for ice climbing as long as the boot satisfies the following – Rigid sole boot with at least a 3/8" welt or groove on the heel and toe (to attach your crampons). There are several well-established footwear brands with a full line of mountaineering and ice climbing boots, such as SCARPA, Garmont, Lowa, Asolo, La Sportiva and more. KAILAS has also started producing nice looking mountaineering boots. Boots can be sorted according to their warmth as well as their technical prowess. Generally, more technical boots are lighter and less warm.
当今的高山靴简直就是高科技的结晶：轻量、舒适、保暖、技术功能全面、样子又好看。只要符合以下要求的高山靴，你都可以用来攀冰——硬底、鞋跟和鞋头处有至少1cm长的凹槽用来卡冰爪。有很多品牌拥有完整的高山靴和攀冰靴产品线，比如SCARPA、Garmont、Lowa、Asolo、La Sportiva等，凯乐石也开始生产非常漂亮的高山靴。就性能来说，高山靴的保暖性和技术性成反比，越偏技术性的靴子，就越轻薄，越不保暖。
▲高山靴保暖性和技术性的对比
If you’re new to ice climbing, we recommend you try different types and brands of boots to see which fit your foot the best. Also, if you think you will do mountaineering in addition to ice climbing, then consider buying one pair that can satisfy both these sports, such as the SCARPA Phantom Tech. When you really get into the sport then it’s worth diversifying by getting boots for different types of climbing.
我们推荐攀冰新手试试几种不同类型的高山靴，比较之后才知道哪种鞋子最适合自己的脚型。如果你在攀冰以外还想同时兼顾登山，那就选购一双能满足这两项运动的高山靴。我们推荐SCARPA的Phantom Tech（幻影技术型高山靴）。当你真正爱上攀冰之后，那时可以再考虑买更多适合不同攀登类型的鞋。
Ice Tools
冰镐
The modern ice tool is truly cool looking. There are many styles of tools with different functions, such as lightweight alpine tools, general ice climbing tools, tools designed for steep and technical ice routes, dry tooling tools and more. Tools are around 50cm in length. While many folks go for a popular brand or the coolest looking tool out there, this is probably not the best way to select a tool that’s best suited for you.
现在的冰镐有非常酷的外型。有许多不同类型的冰镐，它们具备不同的功能。比如轻量化登山冰镐，普通攀冰冰镐，专为攀登陡峭高难度线路的冰镐，干攀冰镐，等等。冰镐的长度通常在50cm左右。选择冰镐时，很多人常常看重冰镐的品牌或者外型，但要找到一对最适合自己的冰镐并不是仅仅看这些。
▲不同冰镐适合的攀登类型指引
First, use a tool that’s designed for the type of climbing you’re doing and your climbing ability. Then, the feel of the tool in your hand is important. Does the weight and balance feel natural to you? Put the tool above your head and swing it several times. (Of course you need to do a proper ice climbing swing and if you don’t know how then, quick, sign-up for an ice climbing class). Some tools will just feel better than others. It’s pretty intuitive and you’ll find yourself saying, “Now that’s sweet”.
首先，你必须使用符合自己攀登项目和攀登能力的冰镐。其次，冰镐的手感很重要。你握住冰镐时它的重量和重心让你感觉自然吗？手持冰镐举过头顶，挥动几下（当然，前提是你应该知道正确的挥镐动作，不知道的话就赶紧报一个攀冰培训班吧）。你会感受到一些冰镐就是比其他的要舒服一点，你的直觉告诉你：就是这个feel。
Some tools may feel too top heavy, or the opposite, the head feels too light. Most modern tools have a way to add or subtract weight from the head, depending on your preference. Is the curve of the shaft and angle of the pick suitable for making that perfect placement – Dhut! – Ohhh the orgasmic sound of a perfect pick placement in ice. You’ll probably have to climb up real ice to get a feel for how the curve and angle compliments your swing. Also, if you’re not that strong, a lighter tool is probably more suitable for you. Popular ice tools brands include KAILAS, Grivel, Petzl, BD, Camp, and DMM.
有的冰镐可能让人感觉镐尖偏重，或者相反，镐尖偏轻。现在大部分冰镐可以根据你的偏好，通过配重片来调整镐尖的重量。镐柄的曲度和鹤嘴的角度能让你做出一次完美的入冰吗？——“啪！”——如果镐尖入冰的声音让你听出了啪啪啪的快感，那就对了！你可能需要真正爬上一座冰壁，才能找到什么样的曲度和角度才能配合你的挥搞动作。另外，如果你力气不大，较轻的冰镐会更适合你。常见的冰镐品牌包括凯乐石、Grivel、Petzl、BD、Camp、DMM等。
▲几款极具代表性的技术冰镐
Harness
安全带
Whereas you can use most any type of climbing harness for ice climbing, certain harnesses are designed specifically for technical climbing. These harnesses you can adjust the size of the leg loops. This is convenient for putting on your harness over big boots and also if you’re wearing thick pants. These harnesses also have a place to attach an ice screw clipper – plastic carabiner specially designed for storing your ice screws on your harness.
几乎任何类型的攀登安全带都可以用于攀冰，然而也有一些安全带是专为技术性攀登而设计的。这种安全带的腿环可以调节大小，当你需要把安全带穿过笨重的高山靴或者厚重的裤子时，这样的设计很实用。这类安全带上还专门有地方可以放置冰锥挂环——一种特别为携带冰锥而设计的塑料锁扣。
Belay device & locking carabiner
保护器&主锁
If you’re going to go ice climbing with a group of friends, I highly recommend you learn how to belay, which is how you protect your friend while she’s climbing. Being able to belay your friend guarantees your friend will give you a belay when it’s your turn to climb. Otherwise, you’re always dependent on other’s goodwill. So go buy a belay device and locking carabiner and learn how to use them correctly.
如果你和朋友们组队一起去攀冰，强烈建议你先学会如何打保护，这样在朋友攀爬的时候你可以保护他。保护别人意味着当你攀爬时也会有人来保护你，不然的话，你永远只能靠别人。所以，买一个保护器和配套的主锁并学习正确的使用方法很有必要。
For ice climbing you will need a tubular belay device that can take two ropes simultaneously. Do NOT buy an auto-blocking device. Auto-blocking belay devices are great for rock climbing, but bad for ice climbing. Also, do not buy an auto-locking carabiner. Buy a large, screw-gate locking carabiner. Auto-locking devices tend to freeze-up and stop working.
对于攀冰，你需要一个能同时放进两条绳子的管状保护器。不要使用带自锁的保护器。自锁保护器用于攀岩很好，但用于攀冰很糟糕。而且，也不要使用带自动锁门的主锁，而要选一个大的带丝扣锁门的主锁。所有自锁装置在冰雪环境下都有可能因结冰而失效。
Helmet
头盔
Any climbing helmet from a reputable technical climbing company will work for ice climbing.
只要由可信的技术攀登装备公司生产，所有攀登头盔都可以用于攀冰。
25L-35L Technical Backpack
25L-35L技术背包
You have to walk on hiking trails to the base of most ice climb. I highly recommend carrying all your equipment, lunch, water, warm clothing, medical kit, etc. in a small to mid-sized technical or climbing backpack. Some people wear their harness in the morning and then hang their crampons, water bottle and other stuff from their harness, and carry their clothes in their hands. Very amateur looking and not smart. First, you often need to use your hands while hiking and it’s easy to trip if they’re full carrying random stuff. And all your gear hanging from your harness is uncomfortable and gets snagged on branches. Not to mention that if you trip and fall, crampons attached to your harness may leave puncture wounds in undesirable places.
大部分攀冰场地都需要经过一段徒步路程到达，你最好把所有装备打包进一个小型或中等容量的技术背包里，包括午餐、水、保暖衣物、急救包等等。有的人早晨出门时会穿上安全带，把冰爪、水壶、其他东西都挂在上面，然后把衣服拿在手上。这样的范儿看起来很业余，也不是一个好方法。第一，徒步时你经常需要用到双手，如果手上全是东西会很容易摔倒。另外，所有挂在安全带上的东西会让你走得很不舒服，还随时可能挂住路边的树枝。更不用说，万一你真的摔倒，挂在安全带上的冰爪还可能会刺伤什么难以描述的部位。
Technical packs are designed with attachments for your ice tools and crampons on the outside, are comfortable, and durable. A common type is a summit pack.
技术背包的设计特点是让你的冰镐、冰爪这些装备都能存放在背包上特定的外挂点，且背包兼具舒适与耐用，冲顶包是技术背包中一种常见的种类。
In Conclusion
干货总结
- Crampons: Step-in crampons, vertical front points
- Boots: Rigid sole boot with a “shelf” at the toe and heal
- Ice Tools: Right tool for the right job, Feels “sweet”,
- Harness: technical harness designed for an ice clipper
- Belay Device & Locking Carabiner: manual locking carabiner, NO auto-locking belay device
- Helmet: any certified mountaineering helmet
- 25L-35L Technical Backpack: Must have place to secure ice tools and crampons
- 冰爪：全卡式冰爪，前立齿
- 高山靴：硬底，前后跟有卡槽固定冰爪
- 冰镐：匹配你的攀爬项目和水平，手感良好
- 安全带：技术型安全带，可以放置冰锥挂环
- 保护器&主锁：手动锁门的主锁，非自锁保护器
- 头盔：经过认证的登山头盔
- 25L-35L技术背包：有冰镐和冰爪外挂点
Keeping your equipment in Good working condition
装备保养
Crampons can get dull easily. Use a metal file to keep your crampon’s front points sharp and at the right angle. After a day of ice climbing, clean any mud from your crampons and dry off excess water or your crampons will rust. On occasion (like at the end of each climbing season), you can also oil your crampons.
冰爪很容易就会变钝，用一把金属锉刀经常保养冰爪，让前齿保持锋利并维持正确的角度。经过一整天的攀冰之后，清理沾在冰爪上的泥土和积水，否则冰爪会生锈。定期（比如每个攀登季结束后）给冰爪上油。
▲使用锉刀保养冰爪
图片来源:REBECCA M. FULLERTON
You will also have to file to your ice tool picks to keep them sharp. The angle of the pick and depth and angle of the pick's teeth is super important for how well your pick sticks into the ice. I’m not going to go into this here as there are whole articles and opinions on how to sharpen your pick and you can look these up. The important thing is to keep those picks SHARP!
同样你的冰镐也需要用锉刀使它们保持锋利。鹤嘴刃口的角度以及镐尖下齿的深度和角度对冰镐入冰的效果都至关重要。可以找到许多文章专门讨论用锉刀保养冰镐的方法，所以这里我们不再深入探讨。再次强调，保持冰镐锋利——很重要！
▲使用锉刀保持冰镐镐尖锋利
图片来源：Backcountry.com
Helmet is to protect your head from falling ice and rock, and to protect your head in the rare case you take a fall. A helmet is meant to crack when there is enough impact force. A cracked helmet, no matter how big or small, is damaged and must be retired. Hang it on the wall and buy a new one.
头盔保护你的头部免于遭受落冰和落石，万一发生滑坠时也能保护头面免遭撞击。当遭到一定程度的猛烈撞击时，头盔会裂开以吸收冲击力。不论裂痕有多大，裂开的头盔都不能继续使用了。一定要买一顶新的，坏掉的那顶也许可以挂在墙上留作纪念。
▲裂开的头盔不能再继续使用
图片来源：blacksheepadventuresports.com
Although I did not mention ice screws, ice screws also need TLC. Keep your screw tips nice and sharp. Let them air dry at the end of the day. Cap them off when not in use.
虽然我没有提到冰锥，但冰锥仍然需要温暖的关怀。保持冰锥锋利，每天攀冰结束后让它们自然阴干，不用的时候记得带上保护套。
▲锋利的冰锥（左）和已变钝的冰锥（右）
That’s it. Be safe out there and have fun!
好啦！今天就聊这么多，注意安全，玩得开心！
成都领攀期待与你相约攀冰季！
（点击图片或链接了解2019攀冰季详细安排）
