Wine Legend: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, La Tâche 1978, Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy, France
Number of bottles produced 23,710
Composition 100% Pinot Noir
Yield (hl/ha) 29.3 hl/ha
Alcohol content 13%
Release price 476 Francs a bottle (£240 today)
Auction price today £4,030-£4,080 a bottle
名酒传——罗曼尼康帝酒庄拉塔希1978
产地：法国 勃艮第 沃恩罗曼尼社区
瓶装量：23,710
成分：100％黑比诺
产量：2930升/公顷
酒精度：13％
发行价：476法郎/瓶（约合现240英镑）
拍卖现价：£4,030 - £4,080/瓶
A legend because…
Next to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s Romanée Conti and (in some eyes) Musigny, La Tâche the greatest of Burgundy‘s grands crus, many preferring the lavish, sensuous La Tâche to the more restrained Romanée-Conti. When Michael Broadbent tasted this wine in 1983, he singled it out for one of his rare ‘Six Star’ ratings, the usual maximum being five.
缘起……
紧挨着罗曼尼康帝酒庄的罗曼尼康帝园和米西尼园，拉塔希园是勃艮第最伟大
的葡萄园。许多人更喜欢奢华而感性的拉塔希酒，而不是更加内敛的罗曼尼康帝。 1983年迈克尔·布罗德本特（Michael Broadbent）品尝这种酒时，他给出了罕见的六星级评价，通常，最高级是五星。
Looking back
DRC is jointly owned by two families, the Leroys and the de Villaines, and from 1974 onwards, Aubert de Villaine shared the management with Lalou Bize-Leroy. The winemaker was André Noblet, succeeded by his son Bernard. The 1970s were, it is generally agreed, far from the finest decade in DRC’s history, but it bounced back in 1978 with a range of exceptional wines. By now de Villaine was already paying meticulous attention to the domaine’s great vineyards, a more crucial factor in the wines’ splendour than any winery wizardry.
回顾
罗曼尼康帝酒庄由Leroys和de Villaines两个家族共同拥有，从1974年开始，酒庄由Aubert de Villaine与Lalou Bize-Leroy共同管理。 酿酒师是AndréNoblet，后来由他的儿子Bernard继任。 人们普遍认为，1970年代远不是罗曼尼康帝历史上最好的十年，但是它在1978年以一系列出色的葡萄酒焕发生机。 如今，Villaine已经对酒庄的那些了不起的葡萄园倾尽心血，这是一个酒庄保证酒品品质最可靠的要素。
The vintage
1978 was the finest vintage of the decade, though most of the growing season was awful. Cold weather in spring and early summer led to a late flowering, which signalled a late vintage. It was only in August that fine weather returned, and fortunately conditions remained benign through the autumn, allowing the fruit to attain full ripeness. But it was a slow process. De Villaine recalls: ‘It was sunny every day, but the nights were fresh. Many estates began the harvest on 11 October, but we allowed the bunches to simmer in ideal conditions until 16 October, and then we harvested in a week.’
年份
1978年是那十年最好的年份，虽然大部分的生长季节是糟糕的。 春季和夏季寒冷的天气导致了开花晚，这也意味着收获晚。 直到八月份才有了好天气，值得庆幸的是，良好气候条件一直持续到秋季，使果实达到了完全成熟的程度。 但这是一个缓慢的过程。 De Villaine回忆说：“每天都阳光明媚，但夜晚很凉爽。 10月11日，许多庄园开始收获，但是我们让葡萄在理想条件下进一步成熟到16日，然后我们在一个星期内将其收获。”
The terroir
The vineyard lies on a slope, steep at the top, just above the village, with the Richebourg, La Grande Rue and Romanée-Conti grands crus for neighbours. It is 6.06ha, well-drained, and the average age of the vines is well over 50 years. Geologically, it’s complex, with a topsoil of varying depth over limestone, yet there is no significant difference in ripening patterns between the top and bottom of the slope. It gives a wine that shows well young, but continues to evolve and gain in complexity and density as it ages. It can develop truffley aromas, and great sensuality on the palate. It is also very consistent and produces excellent wines even in difficult vintages.
风土
葡萄园位于一个陡峭的山顶斜坡上，与里奇堡、大街园和罗曼尼康帝园为邻，在沃恩村上方。 这地块6.06公顷，排水良好，葡萄的平均年龄都大大超过50年。 在地质结构上是复合的，石灰石上的表土深度不同，但在斜坡顶部和底部成熟形态没有明显差异。 葡萄酒年轻有活力，但随着不断陈酿，它会不断演变得复杂而紧实。 它可以演化出松露的香味，口感极佳。其葡萄酒品质能一贯保持优异，即使在不佳的年份。
The wine
The policy of DRC is not to destem, and this would have been the case in a ripe year like 1978. As with other DRC wines, the must was fermented in open-top wooden vats with initial pumpovers and regular punchdowns. After pressing, it was decided how much, if any, press wine to add, and then the wine would have been aged in new oak with little if any racking. In 1978 the wine would have been bottled directly from the barrel, a practice halted in 1985. This could account for slight variations between different lots, although the critical reaction to the vintage was uniformly positive.
葡萄酒
罗曼尼康帝酒庄的工艺是不去梗，像1978年这样的成熟年份也是如此。与其他罗曼尼康帝葡萄酒一样，这种葡萄酒必须在顶部开口的木桶中发酵，期间会淋皮和常规压帽。 压榨之后，决定加多少（如果有的话）酒醡，然后葡萄酒会在新的橡木桶中陈年或倒罐（如果有的话）。 1978年，葡萄酒将直接从桶中装瓶，这种做法在1985年被叫停。这可能是不同批次之间的轻微变异的归因，尽管对葡萄酒的积极评价是一致的。
The reaction
De Villaine recalls the young wines were aromatically lively with supple tannins, guaranteeing a long life - ‘it is still youthful today.’ After lavishing praise on the wine in 1983, Broadbent was still enthusiastic in 2000: ‘If Romanée-Conti is Beethoven, for me La Tâche is Tchaikovsky; dramatic, opulent. Shapely and slender, flowery but firm, gloriously well evolved by the late 1990s, with an almost tsunami-like surge of fragrance and flavour.’
In 1994, Burgundy specialist Clive Coates MW found the wine ‘full, fat, very concentrated and old-viney’, with ‘marvellously intense fruit’. Bill Nanson reported in 2005: ‘Wonderful effects on the inside of your mouth – fireworks certainly - quite rich, with a finish that defies reason.’ In 2008, Allen Meadows found the wine to be just past its peak: ‘The flavours remain the concentrated, sweet, very rich essence of mature Burgundy with superb length and depth though it no longer possesses the detail and finesse it once did’.
反响
De Villaine回忆说，年轻的葡萄酒芬芳活泼，单宁柔顺，确保了酒的长寿。 “今天还是很年轻”，在1983年对葡萄酒赞不绝口之后，布罗德本特在2000年依然充满热情：“如果说罗曼尼康帝是贝多芬，对于我来说，拉塔希是柴可夫斯基，有着激动人心的华丽。 20世纪90年代后期得到了完美演变，酒体匀称，花香沉静，芬芳气息如同海啸般袭来。”
1994年，勃艮第专家克莱夫·科茨（Clive Coates MW）发现这种葡萄酒“饱满，丰润，非常浓缩，老藤气息”，并且有着“非凡紧实的果味”。比尔·南森在2005年报道：“在口腔深处有美妙的反应，如同烟花绽放，回味丰富不可名状 “。2008年，艾伦·梅多斯发现这种葡萄酒刚刚过了顶峰：”口味仍然集中，是勃艮第成熟的浓郁，甜美，非常丰富的精华，虽然不再拥有曾有的的细节和细腻口感，但是绵长和深味都是出色的。”
译自——
