Mr. MERMET Frédéric 法国丝绸协会常务理事
Ladies and gentlemen,
Good afternoon to you all,
女士们，先生们：
大家下午好，
I am glad to have the opportunity of meeting the representatives of Chinese silk industry and their international guests, who are attending ISU Silk Seminar today.
很高兴与出席交流会的中国丝绸行业代表及国际嘉宾相见于此。
I’m taking the floor on behalf of Mr Xavier Lepingle, who is the President of INTERSOIE France, the association which comprises all the leading textile silk companies in France. I’m talking here representing French silk industry, which plays a key role in Europe and in the world.
我谨代表法国丝绸协会会长Xavier Lepingle先生在此发言，法国丝绸协会的会员都是领先的纺织丝绸企业。法国丝绸产业在欧洲和世界上都起着关键作用。
In France, the heart of this industry is concentrated in Lyon and its region, employing over 4,000 local workers, in a large number of SMEs including subsidiaries of prestigious luxury brands.
法国的丝绸行业主要集中在里昂及其周边地区，包括著名奢侈品牌子公司在内的众多中小企业在内，共雇佣了4000多名本地工人。
For more than five centuries, Lyon silk industry is involved in high end fashion products, furnishing textiles and luxury textiles, maintaining excellence in silk know-how and remarkable creativity all over the world.
五个世纪以来，里昂的丝绸产业涉及高端时尚的产品、装饰用纺织品和奢侈纺织品，在世界范围内保持专业的丝绸技术和非凡的创造力。
All the main processes for Luxury market and the silk creative industry are carried out in France or more generally in Europe, except sericulture and reeling. Certain techniques such as silk weaving, throwing, printing, as well as dyeing are well represented in the Lyon silk industry.
除了蚕桑和缫丝，丝绸奢侈品市场和创意产业大都在法国，或者广泛的说在欧洲。捻线、织造、印花和染色等技术很好地代表了里昂的丝绸产业。
In 2018, around 400 tonnes of raw silk and thrown silk were imported and processed in the Lyon area. This supply from Brazil and China concerns only silk of the highest quality (5A or 6A grade). Also 300 tonnes of greige fabrics were also imported to be dyed or printed in France.
2018年，里昂进口并加工了约400吨生丝和捻丝，这些原材料主要来自巴西和中国的高品质丝（5A或6A）。同年，法国进口300吨坯布用于印染。
Historically, French silk fabrics as well as manufactured silk goods are exported around the globe. 2018, the French silk industry performed well in exporting silk fabrics (more than 56 million Euros, increasing by 10% in 2018). Then, exports of manufactured silk goods amounted 156 million Euros, increasing significantly by 22%.
历史上，法国的真丝面料和真丝产品销往全球各地。2018年，法国丝绸面料出口可观，出口额达5600万欧元，比上年增长10%。丝绸制品的出口额达1.56亿欧元，增长22%。
What are the main challenges of the French silk industry? Three main challenges can be drawn:
法国丝绸产业面临的三个主要挑战：
1. Firstly: To enhance internationalization and open business opportunities outside the EU through free trade agreements, and thanks to more level playing field for international trade.
通过自由贸易协定和更加公平的国际贸易竞争环境，促进国际化，并在欧盟以外的地区开拓商机。
2. Secondly: To strive for the improvement of international quality standards due to the constantly increasing demand for the highest quality of raw silk. A new classification based on the electronic test method is needed, closely linked to the technical requirements of the luxury market. This classification based on objective measurements has to be the new language in the customer and supplier relationships, allowing to determine the right price of the raw silk lot in relation with its quality level. Moreover, this new classification has to take into account new issues such as CSR, i.e. social and sustainable requirements (sustainability, environmental protection, customer protection, social relations).
随着丝绸制造商对高品质生丝需求的不断增加，寻求更佳的国际质量标准。我们需要一种基于电子检测的新分类方法，来满足奢侈品市场的技术要求。这种客观的检测分类已成为客户和供应商之间的一种新语言，从而可以根据其质量水平确定生丝批次的合理价格。此外，这种新分类必须考虑到诸如企业社会责任之类的新问题，即社会和可持续要求（可持续性、环境保护、客户保护、社会关系）。
3. Last but not least, the third challenge concerns the future issues: More sustainable business models, circular economy, digital technologies enabling customization… French and European silk manufacturers would like to be an exemplary role model and to be part of that tradition of constant innovation in order to promote sustainable development. As identified in the United Nation COP 2015 Paris Agreement there is an urgent imperative for global efforts to tackle climate change and environmental damage from major industrial activities. Corporate strategies of key luxury groups must have embedded sustainability. For example, on the occasion of the G7 Summit held on August 2019, President Macron - the French Republic President - expressed request to CEOs for their commitments: to tackle climate change, for environmental damage to biodiversity and oceans. Moreover, new values-led consumerism has emerged: the younger generation of millennials are passionate about social and environmental issue.
第三个挑战与未来问题有关：更可持续的商业模式、循环经济和实现定制的数字技术。法国和欧洲的丝绸制造商希望能够起到示例作用，成为持续创新传统的一员，促进可持续发展。正如2015年联合国COP大会《巴黎协定》所指出的那样，迫切需要全球努力应对主要工业活动造成的气候变化和环境破坏。主要奢侈品集团的企业战略必须具有内在的可持续性。例如，在2019年8月举行的G7峰会上，法国总统马克龙要求首席执行官作出承诺：应对气候变化对海洋生物多样性的环境破坏。此外，新的价值观主导的消费主义已经出现：千禧一代对社会和环境问题充满兴趣。
In that context, we are convinced that silk manufacturers are key players in creating change. They have been able to deal successfully to always changing expectations of their customers. We are also convinced that the silk fiber lends itself on sustainability.
我们相信丝绸制造商是变革的关键参与者，他们仍然能够成功应对消费者不断变化的期望。我们也同样相信丝绸纤维有助于实现可持续性。
In conclusion, we think that ISU has a future role to play in promoting the silk fiber, sharing ideas to meet these challenges, helping to enhance best practices and improving international relations and collaboration among silk players in the world.
总之，我们认为未来国际丝绸联盟在促进丝绸发展、交流观点、应对挑战、加强有效实践、改善国际关系与合作等方面将扮演着重要角色。
来源：国际丝绸联盟秘书处