
近两日,国际上有条大新闻:唐纳德·特朗普当选成为美国第45届总统。特朗普被评为最没有穿衣品味的总统,但从政治的角度看,有没有可能他其实是一位着装天才呢?下面我们来分析一下特朗普穿衣的6大错误,
It’s the most striking piece of news from the last few days: Donald Trump’s election as the 45th president of the United States of America. Today I suggest you review why Trump could be considered the president with the worst fashion taste… Or, from a political point of view, could he perhaps be a fashion genius? Let’s review the 6 faux-pas of Donald Trump together:

领带
The Tie

只要对时尚稍有了解,就可以看出:特朗普领带的选择总是糟糕透顶。
There is absolutely no need to be a fashion specialist to see how his tie is always a disaster.
--领带长至腰带下方。合适的领带长度,其底端应该刚刚触及腰带。领带过长给人的感觉是,他想用领带遮盖什么
--It is always too long, and goes too far under the belt when only the lower tip of the tie should reach it. Here we get the impression that he wants to cover his intimate parts.
--领带过宽。现如今,“领带宽度不得超过智能手机的宽度”已成为选择领带的标准。对于特朗普的宽领带,我们可以这样理解:在90年代以前,宽领带在特朗普那一代人中间很流行。但即便如此,也不能把领带结打得那么小,这样会跟过宽的领带形成强烈的对比。
--His tie is too large. Nowadays the rule is “no wider than a smartphone.” He could easily reply that such a wide tie used to be the standard style until the 90’s and is still popular among people from his generation. But even in that case the knot of the tie should not be as small as it is. This creates an awful visual contrast.
--领带颜色与西装颜色对比太强烈。特朗普金发肤白,头发和皮肤颜色对比并不明显,领带颜色与西装颜色也应如此,对比不能过于强烈。
--The colour of his ties is often too strong, giving off a strong contrast with his navy suit. As a blond white man he should match the low contrast of shades on his face with his suit and tie.



西装肩宽
The shoulders

唐纳德·特朗普想展示自己大哥大的地位。因此,他总是穿着肩宽大于肩膀的外套,将自己的肩膀隐藏在外套之中。要注意的是,西装肩宽和双臂宽度应一致,而不是如下图所示这样:
Donald Trump is an alpha male and wants to show it. Therefore, he tends to wear jackets which are too large for his shoulders and seem lost inside. Remember, there should not be any gap between your arm and the shoulder of your suit, as in this photo below:


外套长度
The Jackets

最大的缺点:外套过长!胳膊自然下垂,西装外套的下摆长度应位于大拇指的上方,而特朗普的外套长度总是比他的胳膊还长。似乎特朗普总是选择比他身材大好几号的西装,而这样的着装让人感觉块头很大,不容置疑,很有权力。
Terrible fashion faux-pas: his jackets are too long! Indeed, the length of the jacket should end slightly above the thumb, yet Donald Trump’s jackets always extend much lower than his arms. We can clearly see Trump chooses jackets several sizes above what he should wear. This creates an impression of someone massive, unavoidable and powerful.


裤子褶皱
Creased Trousers

即使不是富豪,选择西装时也要兼顾西装的面料质量,其材质不能轻易起褶。特朗普的西装裤子似乎总是充满褶皱,看起来很糟糕的样子,不知道是不是他家的熨斗*工罢**了!
Even without being a millionaire, we should expect a man wearing a suit to choose materials of good enough quality to avoid “creasing,” or the wrinkles that can appear at the top of the trousers while moving or sitting. Trump’s trousers are often creased, and, let says it, it looks horrible. It’s as if his iron was on strike!


宽松的袋型裤
The Baggy Style

唐纳德·特朗普早已不是他20岁时的身材,也没有人建议他穿适合自己的西装。但是,至少应该避免宽松的袋型裤子!他的裤子实在太宽了。穿西装的目的就是让自己看起来更加正式,可是特朗普穿的裤子像是运动服一样。
Donald Trump may no longer have the legs he had in his 20’s, and no one asks him to wear very fitted trousers. But please, at least the baggy style has to be avoided! His trousers are much too large. A suit’s purpose is not supposed to look casual. There is sportswear for this effect.


"我穿的是爸爸的西装"
"I took Daddy's suit!"

看样子,特朗普不仅继承了他父亲的财富,同样继承了他父亲的西装。裤子总是太长,鞋子上面的裤腿折了好几个褶子。似乎像是孩子穿起爸爸的西装的样子。西装裤子的长度在鞋子上方只要折一褶足以,千万不要折两褶甚至更多。
Trump gives us the impression that he inherited not only his father’s fortune, but also his suits. The trousers are too long and have too many pleats over the shoes. This brings to mind the image of a child trying on his father’s suit which would be too big for him. Trousers should only break once on the shoes, not twice, and definitely not create a dozen pleats.


最后结论是什么呢?我大胆地称呼他为着装天才,也相信至少他应该有私人的造型师。理由其实很简单:他的穿衣风格给大家留下了什么印象呢?特朗普给我们展示的是:唐纳德·特朗普是一个很直接的男人,不在乎什么是对什么是错,不在乎时尚是什么。他的穿着,跟那些被穿着考究的精英阶层嘲笑不懂礼仪时尚的人一样,而这些人正是特朗普要争取的主力军。这样的特朗普,告诉他的支持者们:“我跟你们是一样的,让我来领到你们。”这真是聪明绝顶的一计。
The final word in the end? I am actually tempted to declare him a fashion master, or at least believe he has good advisers. The reason here is simple: what does this look teach us about him? It shows that Donald Trump is a straight forward man who doesn’t bother with what’s right or wrong, and who does not assign much importance to the social rules of fashion. He looks just like the people whose votes he was trying to get, people who feel scorned by well-dressed elites with a knowledge of etiquette rules and how to wear proper attire. With this look, Donald tells his voters “I’m one of yours, and I can be your leader.” Obviously it was a successful strategy.



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