Issey Miyake, one of the first Japanese designers to show in Paris, whose pleated style of clothing allowed for freedom of movement and whose name became a global byword for cutting-edge fashion in the 1980s, died on Friday in Tokyo. He was 84.
三宅一生于周五在东京去世，享年84岁。他是第一批在巴黎举办时装秀的日本设计师之一。三宅一生的褶皱风格服装让穿着者可以自由行动，他的名字在1980年代成为全球前沿时尚的代名词。
His death, in a hospital, was announced on Tuesday by the Miyake Design Studio, which said the cause was liver cancer.
周二，三宅设计工作室宣布了他在医院去世的消息，称死因是肝癌。
Mr. Miyake’'s designs appeared everywhere, from morning to night, from factory floors — he designed a uniform for workers at the Japanese electronics giant Sony — to black tie dances.
三宅的设计随处可见，从早到晚，从工厂车间——他曾为日本电子巨头索尼的工人设计了一套制服——到黑领结舞会。
His insistence that clothing was a form of design was considered avant-garde in the early years of his career, and he had notable collaborations with photographers and architects. His designs found their way onto the 1982 cover of Artforum — unheard-of for a fashion designer at the time — and into the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art in New York.
他坚称服装是一种设计形式，这在他职业生涯的早期被视为前卫观念，他与摄影师和建筑师有过重大合作。他的设计于1982年登上《艺术论坛》(Artforum)的封面——这在当时对于时装设计师来说是闻所未闻的——并被纽约MoMA永久收藏。
Mr. Miyake was feted in Japan for creating a global brand that contributed to the country's efforts to build itself into an international destination for fashion and pop culture. In 2010, he received the Order of Culture, the country's highest honor for the arts.
在日本，三宅一生因为创立了一个全球品牌，为将日本打造成时尚和流行文化的国际重地做出贡献而广受赞誉。2010年，他获得了该国艺术领域的最高荣誉文化勋章。
And as one of the first Japanese designers to show in Paris, he was part of a revolutionary wave of designers that brought Japanese fashion to the rest of the world, eventually opening the door for contemporaries like Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo.
作为最早在巴黎举办时装秀的日本设计师之一，他是将日本时装推向世界的一批革命性设计师的一员，最终为山本耀司和川久保玲等同时代的人打开了大门。
Mr. Miyake is perhaps best known for his micro pleating, which he first began experimenting with around 1988 but which has lately enjoyed a surge in popularity among new and younger consumers. It was driven by his philosophy of fashion: As he said in his book “Pleats Please” (2012, edited by his associate Midori Kitamura), clothes “must bestow freedom on those who wear them.”
三宅一生最出名的可能是他的微褶皱，他在1988年左右开始尝试这种设计，但最近在年轻的新一代消费者中人气飙升。这是由他的时尚哲学推动的：正如他在2012年出版的《Pleats Please》（2012年出版，由他的助手北村绿编辑）一书中所说，衣服“必须赋予穿衣者自由”。
And under his proprietary heat treating system, these clothes never lost their shape: Even when rolled up into balls or knots they would never be wrinkled or crushed, and they could be machine washed.
通过他的专利热处理系统，这些衣服永远不会变形：即使把它们卷成球或拧成结，也不会起皱或被压坏，而且可以机洗。
In 1992, he introduced L'eau d'Issey, a floral fragrance for women that ended in a woody scent of springtime. The perfume was created by Jaques Cavallier, and the bottle was designed by Mr. Miyake (with Fabien Baron and Alain de Mourges) — a slender, minimalist, inverted glass cone with a matte silver top accented with an orb. It was inspired by Mr. Miyake's glimpsing the moon rising over the Eiffel Tower one night in Paris.
1992年，他推出了“一生之水”(L'eau d'Issey)，这是一款专为女性设计的花香香水，以春天的木香作为尾调。香水由雅克•卡瓦里耶设计，瓶子由三宅一生与法比恩•巴伦和阿兰•德•莫热斯设计——一个简约的细长倒置玻璃圆锥体，银色哑光瓶盖上有一个圆球。它的灵感来自于三宅一生在巴黎的一个夜晚瞥见从埃菲尔铁塔升起的月亮。
He often stressed that he did not consider himself “a fashion designer.”
他经常强调，他不认为自己是“时装设计师”。
“Anything that's ‘in fashion’ goes out of style too quickly,” he told the magazine Parisvoice in 1998. “I don't make fashion. I make clothes.”
“任何‘流行’的东西都会很快过时，”1998年，他在接受《巴黎之声》(Parisvoice)杂志采访时表示。“我不搞时尚。我做衣服。”