视频加载中...
快时尚寒潮来临，Zara家族终究与中国市场无缘。据外媒报道，西班牙快时尚品牌Zara母公司Inditex集团旗下的Bershka、Pull&Bear和Stradivarius将关闭所有中国门店，且预计所有关店工作将在2021年年中前完成。那么快时尚巨头Zara是如何发家致富、火遍全球的呢？
The fashion industry might seem small and unimportant, especially in today's world when clothes couldn't be cheaper and more available.
时尚产业似乎很小，也不重要，尤其是在当今世界，衣服既便宜又容易买到。
But make no mistake, there is money in fashion, so much so that the second wealthiest man in the world made his fortune in this industry.
但别搞错了，时尚界是有钱的，这么富有，世界上第二富有的人就是在这个行业发家致富的。
That's why the topic of this week's video is the world's largest clothes retailer, Zara.
这就是为什么本周视频的主题是全球最大的服装零售商Zara。
Our story starts in Spain in 1950.
我们的故事始于1950年的西班牙。
In the northwestern part of the country lies La Coruña, a small but beautiful coastal city.
拉科鲁尼亚位于西班牙西北部，是一座美丽的海滨小城。
Amancio Ortega, who was barely fourteen years old back then,?had just gotten his first job as an errand boy, delivering fabrics for a local clothing retail store.
当时的阿曼西奥·奥尔特加还不到14岁，刚得到他的第一份差事，为当地一家服装零售店送布料。
The young Ortega excelled at his work and as he grew older he started dealing with the store's customers and suppliers, eventually becoming senior manager in 1960.
年轻的奥尔特加工作出色，并且随着年龄的增长，他开始与商店的顾客和供应商打交道，最终在1960年成为高级经理。
When not at work Amancio would develop his own designs out of his sister's house.
不上班的时候，阿曼西奥会在姐姐家里做一些自己的设计。
He practiced reproducing popular designs using the less expensive materials left over from the retail store, while adding his own modifications and improvements.
他用零售店遗留下来的较便宜的材料练习仿制一些流行的设计，同时加入自己的修改和改进。
Amancio would frequently design nightgowns and lingerie, which he would then sell at the retail store.
阿曼西奥经常设计睡衣和内衣，然后在零售店出售。
In 1963 he felt confident enough to leave his managerial job and to start his own company.
1963年，他有了足够的信心辞去高级经理一职，开始创办自己的公司。
Working out of his own home, Amancio established Confecciones Goa with a meager $25 of initial capital.
阿曼西奥在自己的家里工作，用区区25美元的初始资本建立了Confecciones Goa。
He got his brother, sister and wife to work alongside him, and before long Amancio was supplying retail stores across the city.
他让他的哥哥、姐姐和妻子和他一起工作，不久阿曼西奥就开始为全市的零售店供货。
When there were no more family members to put to use, Amancio organized women across the province into sewing cooperatives.
没有更多的家庭成员可供使用了，阿曼西奥就组织全省妇女参加缝纫合作社。
During the 1960s Amancio expanded to service the whole of Spain, but even then he was still only a supplier to retail stores without a brand of his own.
在20世纪60年代，阿曼西奥的业务已经扩展到可以服务整个西班牙，但即使在那时，他仍然只是零售店的供应商，没有自己的品牌。
He was hesitant to start his own company due to Spain's political climate.
由于西班牙的政治环境，他在创办自己的公司时犹豫不决。
Back then, Spain was still a dictatorship under Francisco Franco, the Nationalist general who seized power after the Spanish Civil War.
当时，西班牙仍然是弗朗西斯科·佛朗哥统治下的独裁国家，这位民族主义将领在西班牙内战后夺取了政权。
Among other things, the Franco regime had very tight dress-code regulations.
除此之外，佛朗哥政权有非常严格的着装规定。
On top of that there were very few women participating in the workforce, which meant that most of Amancio's clients wouldn't have a lot of money to spend on clothes.
重要的一点是，很少有女性参加工作，这意味着阿曼西奥的大多数客户不会有很多钱能花在衣服上。
Luckily for Amancio, Franco died in 1975 and totalitarian Spain died along with him.
对阿曼西奥来说，幸运的是，佛朗哥于1975年去世，极权主义的西班牙也随他一起去世了。
The 1970s saw sweeping social and economic reforms across Spain, which revitalized the nation.
上世纪70年代，西班牙进行了全面的社会和经济改革，这些举措振兴了整个国家。
These years came to be known as the Spanish miracle, and Amancio was eager to take advantage of it.
这段时间被称为西班牙奇迹，阿曼西奥渴望利用这样的时机。
He opened his first retail store in La Coruña just a few months after Franco's death.
佛朗哥死后几个月，他在拉科鲁尼亚开了第一家零售店。
Amancio wanted to call his store Zorba, in honor of his favorite movie, Zorba the Greek.
阿曼西奥想把他的商店叫作Zorba佐尔巴，以纪念他最喜欢的电影《希腊人佐尔巴》。
He had already bought the letter molds for the store when he discovered that just a few blocks down there was a big bar with the same name.
他已经为自己的商店买好了字母模具，这时他发现就在下面挨着的几个街区有一家同名的大酒吧。
Whether out of laziness or thrift, Amancio decided to reuse the letter molds he had already bought, and thus he called his retail store Zara.
不管是出于懒惰还是节俭，阿曼西奥决定重新使用他已经购买的字母模具，因此他把自己的零售店命名为Zara。
The timing of Zara's launch was perfect and Amancio's unique approach to fashion helped kickstart the brand's popularity.
Zara推出的时机非常完美，阿曼西奥独特的时尚方式使该品牌受到大众欢迎。
You see, most clothing retailers even today function on a seasonal model with huge production runs, and towards the end of each season they heavily discount the clothes they didn't manage to sell.
你看，即使在今天，大多数服装零售商的运作模式也是季节性的，生产量很大，每个季节快结束时，他们都会对自己没能卖出的衣服大打折扣。
Zara, however, could afford to develop new designs all year round and would only produce them for a brief period, thus eliminating the need for discount sales.
然而，对于Zara来说，全年都有能力开发新的设计，而且只生产很短的一段时间，因此不需要打折销售。
Zara's customers soon learned to buy their clothes quickly before their favorite designs got sold out.
Zara的顾客很快就知道了他们需要在自己最喜欢的款式售罄前赶紧入手。
These limited production runs also ensured that clients knew their clothes would be relatively unique, compared to the mass-produced designs of seasonal retailers.
与季节性零售商的批量生产设计相比，这些有限的生产运行也确保了客户知道他们的衣服会相对独特。
This also gave people an incentive to visit the store frequently, since they knew they'd find new designs every time they visited.
这也促使人们经常光顾这家商店，因为他们知道每次光顾都会发现新的设计。
Because Amancio was in control of the entire production process, from his sewing cooperatives to his storefront, he could market new designs in as little as two weeks.
因为阿曼西奥掌控着整个生产过程，从他的缝纫合作社到店面，他可以在短短两周内推出新设计。
Zara's model, now known as 'fast fashion', became a huge hit and redefined the fashion industry.
Zara的模式，现在被称为“快速时尚”，成为一股巨大的力量，也重新定义了时尚产业。
Over the next decade Amancio expanded throughout Spain and built a 10,000 square meter logistics center.
在接下来的十年里，阿曼西奥在西班牙各地扩张，建立了一个10000平方米的物流中心。
In 1985 he got ready to expand internationally, and so he created a holding company for his stores, called Industria de Diseño Textil, or Inditex for short.
1985年，他准备向全球扩张，于是为自己的商店创建了一家控股公司，名为Industria de Diseño Textil，简称Inditex。
To test the waters he opened Zara's first international store in nearby Portugal in 1988.
为了试水，1988年他在临近的葡萄牙开设了Zara的第一家国际商店。
That turned out well enough and so Amancio ambitiously opened a store in New York in 1989 and in Paris in 1990.
结果很好，于是阿曼西奥雄心勃勃地分别于1989年、1990年在纽约和巴黎各开了一家店。
Over the course of the 1990s Zara opened over 550 new stores across the globe.
在20世纪90年代，Zara在全球开设了550多家新店。
Amancio was eager to expand Inditex' collection beyond Zara, and to that end he started Pull&Bear as a casual urban brand in 1991.
阿曼西奥渴望将Inditex的系列扩展到Zara之外，为此，他于1991年开始推出Pull&Bear，又一个休闲都市品牌。
During the same year Amancio purchased Massimo Dutti, for high-end cosmopolitan clothes.
同年，阿曼西奥购买了Massimo Dutti，用于高端国际服装。
By the turn of the new millennium, Amancio had also created Bershka and bought Stradivarius.
到了千禧年之交，阿曼西奥还创立了Bershka，并收购了Stradivarius。
He was already 64 years old by that point and was looking forward to retiring, so in 2001 he took Inditex public by selling 20% of his shares, which made him the wealthiest man in Spain.
那时他已经64岁了，正期待着退休，所以2001年他通过出售20%的股份一举将Inditex公开上市，这使他成为西班牙最富有的人。
By 2004 Inditex had created two new brands, Oysho and Zara Home, and had opened store #2,000 in Hong Kong.
到2004年，Inditex已经创建了两个新品牌，Oysho和Zara Home，并在香港开设了第2000家门店。
Since then Inditex has been opening more than one new store every single day.
从那时起，Inditex每天都会开不止一家新店。
In 2008 they created the fashion accessories brand Uterqüe and they blew past H&M and the GAP to become the largest clothes retailer in the world.
2008年，他们创立了时尚配饰品牌Uterqüe，一举超越H&M和GAP，成为全球最大的服装零售商。
The financial crisis barely slowed Inditex down, and in 2010 they inaugurated store #5,000 in Rome.
金融危机几乎没有减缓Inditex的发展速度，2010年他们在罗马开设了第5000家分店。
Today, Inditex has a total of 7,292 stores spread across 93 countries and Amancio is the second wealthiest man in the world, worth $67 billion.
如今，Inditex在93个国家拥有7292家分店，阿曼西奥是世界上第二富有的人，身家670亿美元。
He officially retired in 2011, but even after his departure Inditex has continued to dominate the fashion industry.
他于2011年正式退休，但即使在他离职后，Inditex仍继续主导时尚行业。