Wine Legend: Clos Rougeard, Le Bourg 1990
名酒传——红雅酒庄布尔格园1990年份葡萄酒
Clos Rougeard, Le Bourg 1990 is a legend because…
Based in the village of Chacé, southeast of Saumur, Nady Foucault and his brother Charly make wines from their 20 hectares of vines that have acquired cult status. Of their two main vineyards, Poyeux and Bourg, it is the latter which has become most prized. While some vintages can be enjoyed in their youth, top years are best cellared for 10 years or more to reveal their aromatic complexity, silky texture and finesse. In 1993 a bottle of Le Bourg 1990 was surreptitiously included in a blind tasting of top 1990 Pomerols, including Pétrus, Le Pin and Trotanoy, and it received the highest average score. A cult was born.
缘起……
在索米尔东南部的Chacé村，纳迪·福柯和他的兄弟查理在20公顷的葡萄园中酿制葡萄酒，取得令人尊敬的成就。 在他们的两个主要的葡萄园Poyeux和Bourg中，后者最受瞩目。 尽管可以品尝到一些年轻的年份酒，但最好的年份酒是窖藏10年或更长的时间，以显示其复杂芳香和柔滑细腻的质地。 1993年，一瓶1990年份的布尔格葡萄酒跟包括1990年份的波美侯，帕图斯，李鹏庄，卓龙庄酒一起被盲品，布尔格园的酒获得了最高平均分，于是，崇拜产生了。
Looking back
In 1990 the Foucault brothers, the eighth generation of their family to farm in Saumur-Champigny, stood out thanks to their regular use of barriques to age their wines, at a time when many of their neighbours were ageing their Cabernet Franc in large casks or stainless steel tanks so as to produce a less structured wine. The very concentrated Le Bourg is far from the stereotype of Saumur-Champigny as a light wine to quaff in bars and bistros.
回顾
1990年，福柯兄弟作为他们家族的第八代Saumur-Champigny葡萄园种植者，能够脱颖而出，得益于他们严格地坚持用橡木桶陈酿，而当时他们的邻居是用大桶或不锈钢罐来熟化品丽珠，酿出的酒结构松散。非常集中的布尔格园酒远不像刻板的Saumur-Champigny款式，它是一种适宜在酒吧和小酒馆中饮用的风格轻淡的葡萄酒。
The vintage
This was an extremely hot, dry year. Some rain towards the end of summer proved beneficial and allowed the grapes to ripen fully, although in some generously cropped vineyards this caused dilution. The best wines are proving to be long-lived.
年份
这是一个非常炎热干燥的年份。 夏末的一些降雨证明是于作物很有益的，使得葡萄充分成熟，尽管在一些高产的葡萄园里，客观上造成稀释。 最好的葡萄酒被证明是长寿的。
The terroir
The single hectare of Cabernet Franc vines in Le Bourg, located just behind the domaine’s cellars, are about 70 years old. The soils are a thin clay with limestone and are organically farmed. As rare as Le Bourg is Clos Rougeard’s white, made from 1ha of old-vine Chenin Blanc. The vineyards, replanted using massal selections, are ploughed and manually harvested. Yields are kept very low to ensure that the wines have sufficient concentration to withstand and benefit from prolonged barrel ageing.
风土
布尔格园一公顷的品丽珠葡萄，恰好位于酒庄酒窖的后面，树龄在70岁左右。 土壤是一种薄薄的石灰石粘土，有机耕种。稀罕的红雅酒庄布尔格园白葡萄酒，是由1公顷的老藤品丽珠制成。 葡萄园经过大量筛选后重新栽植，并手工采摘。 产量保持在非常低的水平，以确保葡萄酒有足够的浓度来经受并获益于长时间的木桶陈酿。
The wine
After destemming, the grapes are fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak vats with either punchdowns or pumpovers, depending on the character of the fruit. Le Bourg goes through its malolactic fermentation in air-dried new barrels, in which it remains for between 18 and 24 months. The wine is unfiltered, and spends a further year in bottle before release. The Foucaults’ cold cellars, tunnelled into the rock, ensure that the wines’ evolution is slow.
葡萄酒
去梗后，葡萄在橡木桶中与本土酵母一起发酵，伴随着压帽或泵送——取决于果实特质。 布尔格园酒在经过风干的新桶中进行苹果乳酸发酵，并在其中陈酿18到24个月。 葡萄酒未经过滤，在发行前继续在瓶内熟化一年。福柯的冷藏酒窖隧道深入岩石，确保了葡萄酒可以缓慢进化。
The reaction
In March 2015, Antoine Gerbelle of La Revue du Vins de France noted: ‘On opening, it appeared corked, but no. The aromas of damp mushroom vanished after 10 minutes. The nose opened to reveal a bouquet of cooked red fruits, cherries and spices. On the palate the wine still had breadth, weight and a Pinot-like tone that reminded me of a Volnay with more body: again, this balance of a basket of cherries, small red fruits and spices. Still youthful!’
Richard Bernard, sommelier at the renowned Bordeaux restaurant Le St-James, said in a 2014 interview with Decanter that it was the best wine he had ever drunk.
反响
2015年3月，《葡萄酒评论》的Antoine Gerbelle指出：“开瓶时，它像是有些软木塞腐气，事实上不是。 潮湿蘑菇的气味在10分钟后消失。透露出煮熟的红果、樱桃和香料的气味。 在口感上，葡萄酒仍然具有宽厚，深沉酒体和一种类似黑比诺的气息，让我想起了酒体更沉重的Volnay：又是一款平衡完美，包含有樱桃，小红果和香料风味的葡萄酒。 仍处在年轻状态！”
著名的波尔多餐厅Le St-James的侍酒师Richard Bernard在2014年接受《品醇客》采访时说，这是他喝过的最好的葡萄酒。
The facts
Bottles produced 2,500
Composition 100% Cabernet Franc
Yield N/A
Alcohol 12.5%
Release price N/A
Price today N/A, though the wine has fetched E450 at auction in the recent past
数据
瓶装量：2500
成分：100％品丽珠
产量：未知
酒精度：12.5％
发行价：未知
现价：未知（尽管最近的拍卖会上，它取得450英镑的拍价）
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